Wintering Like Professionals 1: Submarine, Rudder, Rig And Sails

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Wintering Like Professionals 1: Submarine, Rudder, Rig And Sails
Wintering Like Professionals 1: Submarine, Rudder, Rig And Sails

Video: Wintering Like Professionals 1: Submarine, Rudder, Rig And Sails

Video: Wintering Like Professionals 1: Submarine, Rudder, Rig And Sails
Video: NUDE WARNING: DROP EM OUT CHALLENGE OUT OF CONTROL | BOAT ZONE 2023, March
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When the yacht is wintered, there are a lot of things to check and maintain. Most of the work is better done in autumn, others can still be done in spring. What owners should pay attention to and how the preparation for the season works best are explained by professionals who need to know.

Peter Wrede from Wrede Yachtrefit in Wedel is an expert in hull renovation and painting

PeterWrede
PeterWrede

The underwater hull should be cleaned thoroughly in autumn. This can be done with a high-pressure cleaner, but you should be very careful, otherwise you will not only shoot down the growth and smallpox, but also the antifouling.

This applies in particular to self-polishing antifoulings, which can thin out very quickly during high-pressure cleaning. Therefore, it is better to clean mechanically with a sanding pad.

Particular attention should be paid to the water pass area, where the pollution is greatest. Soap or other grease dissolving agents such as dish soap should be used there.

Autumn is also the best time to check your ship for any osmosis damage. To do this, it is important to examine the trunk for blistering, which is most pronounced in autumn. The boat had previously been in the water for around six months and absorbed water. If a decomposition reaction has started, the osmosis bubbles have their maximum expansion at this point and can best be seen.

Osmosis early detection Wrede UV light 2019 HSc-3250040
Osmosis early detection Wrede UV light 2019 HSc-3250040

Check for osmosis: You can see osmosis bubbles by grazing light, ideally in autumn. If you see them, consult a professional

Over the winter months, the liquid diffuses back out through the gelcoat, the pressure in the bubbles decreases, and it is possible that nothing can be seen of them in spring. Then the owner may be diligently dragging the entire underwater hull and only then notices that there is osmosis damage. Then all the work was for the cat because the antifouling would be blasted down anyway with an osmosis treatment. The best way to detect osmosis is to use sunlight as grazing light or generate it with a flashlight. The bubbles cast shadows and are very easy to see. Should you find any, we always advise you to seek advice from a specialist.

Prepare underwater hull

Remove SM antifouling 2020 AWO_048
Remove SM antifouling 2020 AWO_048

If you missed cleaning in autumn, you have to do all the more preparatory work in spring. Normally, self-polishing antifouling does not need to be sanded before a fresh coat is applied. But if the algae growth was not removed in autumn, it is now a dried layer on the antifouling. Usually only sanding helps to avoid later detachment.

If you have to sand, we recommend that you do not use sandpaper, but rather sanding pads or sanding fleece such as Scotch sponges, these with as fine a "grain" as possible. Otherwise you will only grind the humps on the rather rough antifouling and not get into the valleys. This also works when wet, which avoids the development of dust.

Basically, the following applies to self-polishing antifoulings: As long as there is antifouling on the hull, it will also work. So if the old antifouling layer is still intact, there is no need to paint it over - it is environmentally harmful, costs money and time. Unnecessary work such as sanding down self-polishing antifoulings always really hurts me. As well as applying antifouling when not necessary.

Paint with a color contrast

Shipyard visit Dufour LRochelle 2020 OBl_200218_207
Shipyard visit Dufour LRochelle 2020 OBl_200218_207

The only problem is recognizing whether there is enough antifouling left. That is why we have developed the so-called layer thickness indicator. We spray the first layer of antifouling in green, only then the actual wear layer in the recommended layer thickness. As long as there is no green to be seen, there is no need to repaint.

This can also be reproduced with existing antifouling by painting the first layer in a light gray and then only in the final color. But this is only possible if the indicator layer is also an antifouling. A different colored primer is not suitable. As soon as this can be seen, there is no more antifouling on the hull and it is overgrown. The antifouling indicator layer, on the other hand, offers a certain degree of security.

In contrast to self-polishing, hard antifouling must always be sanded when it is used up and needs to be reapplied. When applying antifouling, a foam roller or a short-haired mohair roller should be used. Apply twice thinly rather than once thickly. First bring the paint can to room temperature and stir well.

Note the dew point

Antifouling Hempel Silic One 14 HSc_-3250050
Antifouling Hempel Silic One 14 HSc_-3250050

When applying antifouling, it should be ensured that the dew point is not exceeded. The owner will never have the ideal conditions like us, for example, but he can at least avoid serious blunders. This means that the fuselage must always be at the same temperature as the ambient air or be warmer. When the hull is colder than the air, the humidity condenses on it and the antifouling is applied to a film of moisture. This can lead to poor adhesion and later detachment. These conditions usually prevail in the afternoon, when the temperatures drop again, but the hull is still warm from the day. Applying antifouling in the morning will definitely go wrong. Because the hull is still cold out of the night, but the air warms up faster and the yachts sweat.

The temperature difference between the hull and the air can also be easily measured with a laser thermometer from the hardware store for the hull and a normal thermometer for the air. In doing so, not only measure the hull, but also the keel, because it is usually colder because it heats up more slowly. Anyone who has the opportunity to drive the boat outside when applying the antifouling should do so, or at least the hall door should be opened. This allows the hull to dry off better and the solvents can also evaporate more easily.

Check the keel connection

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With the keel, attention should be paid to mechanical damage, especially if there has been a grounding - whether there is damage to the leading edge or chipped or hairline cracks on the keel root and hull. Also check whether the grout between the keel and the hull has come loose. If this is the case, there is no longer sufficient flank adhesion of the keel and the keel can work. In addition, water can then penetrate the structure and cause osmosis on the hull side and corrosion damage on the keel side.

As this grout becomes brittle over the years, it should be renewed from time to time. Simply cut out the joint with a sharp knife such as a carpet knife and re-grout with a polyurethane sealant. There are a number of products for this, such as Saba, Panter or Sikaflex. Since this area is very sensitive because of osmosis and corrosion protection, it might be better to leave that to a specialist before you go about it yourself and start greasing it wildly.

At the same time, the inside of the keel bolts should be checked for tight fit and the area around them for hairline cracks or flaking of the topcoat. If in doubt, it is essential to consult a specialist. But this is also better done in autumn, because if there is major damage that requires more extensive repairs, there is enough time to do so in winter.

Treat rust spots correctly

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Image

Rust on the keel is not a general warning sign, unless it occurs in the area of the hull attachment; on the keel it is more of a visual problem. In addition, the antifouling may not adhere as well to rust. But it doesn't make sense to get to grips with the rust with a flex or brush and then apply a barrier layer like Primocon - with the flex you can't get into the corrosion pits. Only the sandblast penetrates these pits and guarantees a metallically pure substrate. Applying the corrosion protection is also not done with one or two layers. One layer is about 20 micrometers, three layers consequently 60, but corrosion protection only starts at 350 micrometers in areas that are permanently exposed to salt water.

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