The broken cylinder head gasket
"If white smoke comes in, the Pope has been found - or the head gasket is broken." Something like that is what they say … at least in mechanics circles. A clear distinguishing feature. Or there are traces of water in the engine oil, perhaps the other way around, traces of oil in the cooling water. But none of that could be seen in our Volvo. We only knew: the engine has a flaw.
It all started in the British Virgin Islands when the diesel suddenly refused to start. We had friends on board whose flight back to Germany was due to take off from the Dominican Republic three days later. Two days and 213 nautical miles away. Time was pressing. With a lot of effort and a long process of organizing the starter, the engine finally came, pushed us out of the offshore reef and out onto the Atlantic. But he hasn't been the same since. Later we found out the cause: the engine is below the waterline. If it does not work, the seacock has to be closed, otherwise water slowly rises in the system, is pushed up by the impeller and finally runs into the exhaust system. At some point this is filled and the water runs back into the engine via the manifold. Water hammer.
We knew we always had to close the sea cock. After all, we had driven well over 6,000 miles with the engine. But knowing it couldn't prevent the sea valve from staying open for too long in the chaos of an anchor maneuver and damaging the engine. As many mechanics as I have asked about this, there have always been new causes for the increasing oil loss. The head gasket, piston rings, a compressed connecting rod. But where should I get the engine repaired? In the Bahamas there was no chance and no reliable postal network to get spare parts. He still had to hold out to the US.
Every day he asked for more engine oil. Only one shot glass at first, then six later. The oil did not disappear into nowhere, but was blown out through the crankcase ventilation. Together with some exhaust gases that put the cabin more and more under fog. "Persevere, persevere." When we arrived in the Bahamas, we hardly dared to use the engine much more than idle. And then it was finally time for the last stage: from the Berry Islands in the Bahamas over the Gulf Stream to Florida.
Just a little less than 170 nautical miles, now a stone's throw. But there was hardly any wind. That little bit of wind from behind, so that it cancels itself with the head wind. Plus a lot of sun. A tough crossing.
Again and again gennaker up, gennaker down, shifting, jibing, fighting for every mile. Those who did not stand and steer in the blazing sun lay below deck under the small fan. It was almost unbearable. A kingdom for a bimini. Our awning cannot stay up while sailing.
Lull on the way to Florida
As we turned into the IntrCoastal Waterway after 50 hours of crossing through the narrow pass of the Lake Worth Inlet and were literally pushed in by the rising water, we felt ourselves become aware of the relief. Pooh … Dhing a really big Damocles sword over us. But now we had made it. We had arrived.
The next morning we want to move into a small lake, about six miles north. There is no mooring fee there and a supermarket is within walking distance. A rather unusual circumstance, because the US is never really a country for pedestrians. We chug through the ICW for an hour, drop anchor and explore the area. Publix supermarket, Starbucks, McDonalds, everything is there. The other anchoring sailors and liveaboards have created a small dinghy themselves - under a highway bridge. There is even a rental car station not far away. A perfect place to take a breather and stock up on provisions. Maybe also to finally take a closer look at the engine?
The decision is made for us: The next morning he doesn't sound any more. As often and as long as I let the starter rotate (which has always led to ignition at some point in the past), nothing: the machine is dead.
We are depressed. I had already emailed several workshops in Florida in the Bahamas and asked if they would take a look at our engine. "Nope, it's too old. It's not worth it. But we can sell you a new one," was the stereotypical answer. We got a phone number for a mechanic in the Bahamas, but we falter when we hear the sums of money mechanics are calling in this country. $ 120 an hour. Madness.
Frustration with a broken engine
What now? Since we are traveling with no reserves, but have to earn the travel budget from month to month, there are not many alternatives: fly home, work a year, then sail on. We have no other choice. Actually, I'm an incorrigible optimist, but worrying about the engine and continuing the journey is depressing. Countless people comment on my port on Facebook in this regard with encouraging, but also thoughtful sentences. An old friend writes: "New engine. You need a reliable machine on such a trip. Fiddling with it and hoping that it will hold out is not acceptable. All the boys here can hunt that when they sail from Marstal to Schleimünde, but you have to be able to rely on the engine for your plans."
He is right. In my mind I am already forging a corresponding plan B.
But now you can't break the engine any more, I'll start looking for the fault myself. It's good that I used to work on mopeds and cars a lot.
Here we go …
When I pull the cylinder head off, I can't believe what I see there: the head gasket has a crack. Most of the people I asked actually ruled that out. A broken cylinder head gasket is actually not something to be happy about. With such an old engine, as we have learned, in most cases even a death sentence. But for us, it's the best news of the day. Apparently the seal tore when the piston tried to compress the water. Since then, the rear cylinder has been compressing into the crankcase and the exhaust gases escape with the engine oil through the crankcase ventilation into the bilge. A coherent explanation.
"Put on protective hats"? The old workshop manual from the seventies
I immediately set about procuring the necessary spare parts. Sure, it won't be cheap either. After all, the Volvo parts are not among the cheapest. "You pay once for Volvo, once for Penta", some say. "The cylinder head nuts alone cost almost 25 euros each." I don't think that's expensive, "my neighbor from Germany wrote to me by email." At least, if you can Consider that Volvo waited 40 years before you buy them. "Another argument. The new nuts have to be, they have to be replaced every time the seal is changed. Because these are special products. Expansion nuts that ensure that The same pressure is always exerted on the seal when the engine is cold and when it is warm.
To our great surprise, everything is available and after a few days we have two small packages from Volvo in hand: a complete set of seals and the nuts.
Happy Johannes
Fortunately, the weather has been consistently good over the past few days. But there was a queasy feeling in my stomach, because the hurricane season is already underway, thunderstorms are the order of the day - and if the anchor slips, we have no chance of maneuvering.
I take the courage, pick up the German and English workshop manuals and get started. The components are cleaned and checked very meticulously (does the cylinder head have to be redesigned?). Everything seems to be fine, the old engine is just sturdy. Ready to go. I put the cylinder head on six times until I'm finally satisfied, and then I repaint a few rusty spots because the machine is supposed to last a while.
Dirty hands
The next morning the first attempt to start: "Wommpommpommpommpomm …" It starts like a new engine. And runs wonderfully smoothly. What a sense of achievement. After three hours of operation, we dare the first voyage, pick up the anchor and motor into the next marina. We haven't had a chance to fill up with water or dispose of rubbish for two weeks. Let alone showering properly. So we treat ourselves to a night on the jetty as a reward. And are relieved: the engine is running. We're back, we can sail on.
Unfortunately, there is still a longer compulsory break. Not a year, however, just a few months. We're on our way to North Carolina to put "Maverick" on the jetty there. We found an incredibly cheap marin ($ 200 / month) in which I want to and have to swap my everyday sailing for three months in the office. Earn money. It's a little cooler up there than here in Florida, where working in the cabin with an outside temperature of 36 degrees is not much fun. It will continue in October. South again. Central America attracts. Enormous. And then? Panama.
But first the work, then the pleasure again.
More information about the trip at www.zu-zweit-auf-see.de